Hello dear readers it’s Angie Hinksman here and a very Happy Holiday Season to you!  Today I’m going to share with you a little hybrid project, inspired by what is probably the most is talked about product this Christmas; the iPad2.  I love the simplicity of the design of the iPad and I think that the included stand is pure GENIUS!  Now, while my little Recipe Stand won’t help you surf the net, it’s certain to brighten up any kitchen table!  You’ll need very few supplies (no need for specialist binding materials  here, just paper, card and some basic crafting supplies.

To create the Recipe Stand and 6 recipe cards, you will need the following supplies:

• Recipe journaling templates – you can download the pdf file here
• Some plain co-ordinating paper or cardstock for printing the journaling cards.  I’ve used some simple ’letterhead’ stationery for mine.
• Selection of 12 x 12 inch patterned scrapbook papers – I’ve used papers from Jen’s beautiful Stella & Rosecollection.  You’ll need 2 for the stand and 1 sheet will 6 recipe cards.  Cut your paper to the following measurements:
  • 1 piece:  8.5 x 12 inches (just keep the off-cut handy, we’ll use this later)
  • 1 piece: 6 x 12 inches (again we’ll use the off-cut later)
  • 1 piece:  cut out 6 at 4 x  6 inches
  • Chipboard or very thick card.  If you can’t get hold of plain chipboard, the back of an old note book will work perfectly! I’ve used the back of one of my scrap-pads.  Cut your card to the following measurements;
    • 2 pieces: 4.5 x 6.5 inches
    • 1 piece: 2.5 x  6.5 inches
    • 2 pieces: ¾  x  6.5 inches
    • A ruler
    • Cutting tools (such as a Stanley knife or rotary cutter and scissors)
    • Adhesive (I’m using a glue stick and some double-sided tape)
    • Cutting matt
    • Rolling pin (this helps the glue stick well)

    

Instructions for the recipe cards:

Print your recipe journal pieces onto your paper and cut out.  Glue these to the front and back of your 4 x 6 inch pieces of scrap paper.  I’ve rounded the edges of mine, to keep with the iPad feel of the project!    

Instructions for the Recipe Stand:

Place your 4.5 x 6.5 and 2.5 x 6.5 inch pieces of chipboard on your 8.5 x 12 inch scrap paper as illustrated.  Align the top and bottom pieces with the edges of the paper.  Place the middle pieces approx. ½ inch below the top piece.  You want to have a bigger gap at the bottom (this will help your recipe stand close well).  Use a pencil to mark where your placed this pieces, then glue them down.  Use your rolling pin over the top then turn the whole thing over and use your rolling pin again. This will make sure your glue has good contact.  Leave to dry for a few minutes then glue the sides down as shown.

Once dry, glue the 6 x 12 inch piece of scrap paper on top, as shown and leave to dry.

Glue the 2 ¾ x 6.5 inch pieces of card together as illustrated.  Once dry, glue and cover with a piece of your left over scrap paper.  Leave to dry.  Once this is dry, glue to the bottom of the main piece(the bottom has the small piece of cardboard).  Leave this whole piece to dry thoroughly (I left mine for about an hour).

On the inside of the stand, cut a piece of your left-over scrap papers in a strip: 2.5 inches x 12.  Place this at the bottom of the stand so that it meets the edge of the ¾ inch piece.  You’ll need to trim this down so it fits your stand.  Using either a thin layer of glue or double-sided tape, glue this down.  This will create pockets to keep your recipe cards in.

Once your stand is completely dry you will be able to fold it as shown.   As you can see, the ¾ inch piece helps  the Stand stay in place!  Cut another little scrap of paper in a triangle shape to act as a photo corner to display your cards(mine is about an inch and half wide). Glue into place. 

Finally place your finished cards in your pockets and enjoy!   I think this would make a great gift andit  is light and small enough to post to far-away family and friends.  Why not invite some ‘recipe-loving’ friends over, give them each a recipe stand, filled with cards and have a recipe swap party.  Now wouldn’t that be fun? 

Have a great day

There are two ways you can create these Coupon Organizers.  If you have either photoshop or photoshop elements and are experienced with working with layered templates, I have included layered psd files that you can use to clip your digi-papers into and print out.  I have also included pdf versions that you can use as templates for your traditional scrapbooking papers; either by printing them onto white card and then using as traditional templates or you can print these straight onto your scrapbooking paper.  You can download these templates here.

You will need the following supplies:

• Your printed Coupon Organizer Documents, printed onto white card – The larger organizer; 1 center/main part and 2 accordion sides. For the small organizer, just one all-in-one document. I’ve used Jen’s Nostalgia 2 papers, available at Design House Digital.
• For the large Organizer, 1 piece of 12×12 inch card stock (for the dividers and lining)
• For the small organizer 1 piece of card stock (I’ve used 1 piece of A4 white cardstock)
• Glue or double sided sticky tape
• Velcro or magnetic tape (to keep your organizers closed)
• Scissors, Craft knife or rotary cutter
• Rolling pin to help your glue stick good and tight!
• Embossing tool, Ruler or Blunt butter Knife (to score folded edges)

I have set up the psd files so that you can easily ‘clip’ your digi-paper straight into the.  Once you have prepared your digi prints you can just print the finished documents onto white cardstock.  Alternatively you can print the pdf versions onto traditional scrapbook paper by first trimming your paper to fit a standard A4 sized page.

Now you are ready to assemble your Coupon Organizer. First, cut out all of your pieces.  Using the center, patterned piece as a guide, cut out another center piece from your cardstock. This will be the lining of your organizer. Cut the remaining card stock into 3 6 x 3 ¼  inch pieces. These will be the ‘dividers’.

Next fold the ‘accordion sides’ as illustrated in the images below.  I’ve included a ‘Black & White’ version to help illustrate this.

Next, glue the sides of 2 accordion pieces to the sides of the main piece as shown below.  Leave this to dry and then glue the lining to the other side.

Once the whole thing is completely dry (I’d give it an hour or so), fold up your organizer as shown and  add the either your Velcro or magnetic tape, as shown. Finally add your dividers.  You can secure the sides with a little glue at the accordion edges  if you like but it’s really not necessary!

The smaller organizer is even quicker. Simply printout the all-in-on sheet, assemble in a similar way to the large organizer (folding at the dotted lines). Cut out 3 5×2 ¾ inch rectangles from your white cardstock. No need to line this one just fold, glue, insert your dividers and your good to go!

And there you have two easy ways to keep track of those oh-so-useful vouchers and coupons!

Have a great day !

What you need to make binder cover:

• Your choice of binder (I have tons of used binders laying around the office ready to be covered and up-cycled or you can purchase one)
• ½ yard fabric for front (I’m using Gray Holly Jolly Damask)
• ½ yard fabric for back/inside (I’m using Gray Holly Jolly Damask, Lost & Found Basic Shades Slate)
• 2 fat quarters for inside pockets (I’m using Gray Holly Jolly Damask, Red Holly Jolly Dots)
• 1 piece of fusible batting & optional lightweight interfacing for pockets
• Optional: lace, ric rack, ribbon, vinyl, binding

First start by measuring your binder. Open the binder and measure from side to side. I just used my cutting mat. This is a 1.5″ binder and the length measures  21.5″ inches. The width (top to bottom) is 11.75″ inches. So to cut the outside of your cover you will add 1″ inch to both the length and width. For a standard 1.5″ binder you will cut your outside fabric 22.5″ x 12.75″.

You will also cut a 22.5″ x 12.75″ piece of fusible batting. Measure from the edge of the side towards the rings to determine the width of the pockets. I cut mine 12.75″ x 10″, you will need 2 (And you will need to cut 2 of the interfacing). I cut the small pockets 6″ x 10″ (red dot).
Once everything is cut out you will need to fuse the batting to your outside piece using the manufacturer’s directions. Then you can start the fun part of embellishing your front…. I cut a piece of the Red Holly Jolly Dots, pinked the edges, gathered it and sewed it down the front on the right side.

I then added jumbo ric rack to the middle of the ruffle stitched down the middle. Next you will need to finish the pockets for the binder to slip into. Take the small pockets and finish one of the 10″ inch sides.  I just folded it down a quarter inch, pressed then folded again and topstitched. You will layer these small pockets with the larger pockets and baste the edges.=

I measured in 2′ inches from the right side on the left pocket for a pencil/pen holder. This pocket will be closest to the rings to allow for room for the pen or pencil. You will bind one 12.75″ inch edge of the 2 pockets.  

Now let’s put it all together with 4 simple strait seams! Lay out the outside piece right side up (you can see the gray Damask in the middle). Lay the pockets right side down, bound edges in the center, on the outside piece and pin the 12.75″ sides. Sew down these 2 sides. Take it back to your cutting table and measure the whole piece and cut your lining piece (Basic Shades Slate) to fit, pink the short sides of the lining. Layer this lining piece right side down on top of the main piece and pin the long edges.

Again sew 2 simple strait seams along the long sides. Turn the lining right side out.

Now turn the pockets right side out.

Now you can slide your binder inside the pockets.

And there you have a covered binder that is sure to keep you in that Holiday spirit…. Now all you have to do is fill it!

Here is a list of what I got:

• Shampoo
• Conditioner
• Lotion
• Body wash
• Bar soaps
• Shower poof
• Flossers
• Toothbrushes (not in the basket, just extras on hand)
• Washcloths
• Trail mix
• Cashews
• Flavored almonds
• Dark Chocolate
• Fruit Bars
• Pistachios
• Dried Apricots
• Crackers
• Water Bottles
• Do not Disturb sign

I placed everything in this fun wire basket from Cost Plus World Market like so:

But of course it wasn’t cute enough for me (Martha would not approve). So I decided to take a little time and make some custom labels and give the whole basket some cohesive elements. Here are a few shots of the cute new packaging:

And the whole basket, just ready to welcome my folks for their visit, and hopefully make their stay as comfortable as possible.

I hope this inspired you to create some sort of welcome basket the next time you have special guests!

Janell here, In March I got a hold of some of Jen Allyson’s Quite Contrary Fabric Collection from Riley Blake and I made my daughter this cute summer dress, but what’s a girl to do without accessories? Make some of course!

There’s still time for a few summer craft projects, these flowers are so simple you can whip up a bunch to enjoy for the rest of the summer or give a few away, they make perfect gifts.  Simple, sweet, and handmade.

The best part about these projects is that they can be made from fabric scraps.  Those of you who work with fabric have oodles of scraps. I chose five different fabrics from Quite Contrary.  For the first flower, you’ll need thread, a needle, scissors, and extra embellishments like buttons, hair clips, or a head band if you choose.

Start with cutting a circle about the size of your hand from one piece of fabric.  You don’t need to make this is perfect circle, in fact a little imperfection adds to the fun of these flowers.

The take your threaded needle and simply stitch about a ¼ inch all around the border.

Then gently pull to cinch the circle together.  Repeat with another circle of fabric slightly smaller than your first circle.  You can make multiple layers to add depth and beauty to your flower.  Once you have at least two circle flowers you can layer them one on top of the other and stitch together.  I added a button so I sewed all three together at the same time.  You can also use jewels or beads in the center, or leave the flowers plain.

Now you can attach the flower to a clip or a hair band or an elastic hair tie.  I wanted to make a fabric covered hair hand to attach the flower to.  This is also very simple to do.  Take your head band that you want to cover and a few long strips of fabric. I chose to tear some strips because I like the raw frayed look of the edges. I started with two long strips that were about ¾ inch thick.  Take a hot glue gun or your favorite craft glue and start at one end and wrap the headband with the fabric strips adding glue about every inch or so.

You can attach your flowers with a little glue or you can sew them on as well. I chose to do both to make sure they were very well attached since I knew my toddler might not be so gentle with her headband.

I even made a card with an extra fabric flower that I had.

The second flower is a “no-sew” flower, also great for scraps.  Tear some strips of fabric anywhere from 1 inch thick to 2 inches.  You can experiement with the thickness to find one you like.  Tie a knot at the end of one strip and start twisting the ends around the knot to form a circle. As you go place glue around the edges. I used a hot glue gun, because that’s what I already had out, but a quick dry craft glue would be ideal and you don’t have to worry about getting burned.

Here are three examples of the different looks you can get from different fabrics using the Quite Contrary line.

The hair clips (below) I started with the pink polka dots for the center of the flowers and then wrapped them with green circles.  I filled the center with brads and buttons.

Try layering multiple flowers for a larger hair barrette or attaching to a pin for a fun, colorful broach.  Make a few for present toppers, magnets, scrapbooking or t-shirt embellishments, there are so many ways to use fabric flowers.

A couple of month’s ago I was seriously inspired by Trish Turay’s dress garland featured on Get it Scrapped. I instantly knew that I wanted to create a shadowbox for my new niece’s nursery. So I bookmarked the website and ordered a 9×20 Shadowbox online.

On Saturday I had a whole day to do whatever I wanted with it. So I hopped out of bed and got to work! The first thing I did was create my own cutting files. I have a Cricut Expression and use SCAL to cut all my own custom files.

I created 2 dresses, 1 apron, 2 over-skirts, and a collar. This made really short work of my project because I didn’t have to hand cut anything.  I love my Cricut.

All the paper that I used is from my Quite Contrary line – Hello Beautiful color set by My Mind’s Eye.

With all my dresses and items cut out, I grabbed some Lush embellishments also by My Mind’s Eye, and my awesome new Glue Arts Glue Glider Pro and started embellishing!

For the first dress, I used ribbons, paper and brads to create some cute hand-made flowers. I also added some tiny rhinestones for buttons and made a glittered sash.

The second dress also got some glitter on the collar and layered skirt. I ran the top skirt through the sewing machine and topped it off with a ribbon sash and a button. I also added a playful pink pom pom trim using my Glue Arts Glider.

For the third dress, I wanted to gather some wide organza that I had lying around. So I pulled out my sewing machine… I barely know how to sew, so pardon how messy this is… but at least you know beginners can do it too!

I traced where the apron hit the dress so that I would know where I needed to start my skirt and how long of a gathered piece I needed.

Then I grabbed some yarn and sewed it loosely to my organza – about twice as long as the skirt.

Then I gently pulled on the yarn to gather it, and then sewed it to the bottom dress, so that none of my bad sewing would show!

The gathered skirt was a little unruly, so I used my glue glider to help it stick down. You couldn’t see any of the glue in the final product.

I also wanted some ric-rac on the bottom of the apron to finish the transition. The best way I know to create adhesive ribbon is to run it through my Xyron. This really makes it easy to get ribbon down securely especially on curves. I also used it on the green ribbon on the first dress.

Once I was happy with how all the dresses turned out, I decided to make a banner with the new baby’s name.

I just hand-cut a bunch of triangles and then ran them through the sewing machine with some crocheting string. I did it really SLOWLY so I had control over the string and the placement on the triangles.

I chose a contrasting color – brown, to give the banner a more detailed effect. Then I simply added some glitter sticker letters.

Once I decided how everything would be placed. I grabbed some teeny clothes pins and some cream seam binding to hang the dresses on. I also found some eye-screws to hang the ribbon by.

For the banner, I used some small pins and tied the string around them.

You can also see that I added a few pins in the middle of the banner to create a scalloped look. This was the final product and I absolutely love how it turned out. The hardest part was having to give it away! But I can’t wait to see it in my new nieces adorable nursery.

For the wrapping, I wrapped some tissue paper around the frame and had my cricut cut out another dress and apron. I only added one embellishment to this dress — a little rhinestone necklace. Then I clothes-pinned it to the ribbon with a little congratulations tag.

If you’re interested in doing this or a similar project, I actually took the time to build all the files (SVG, GSD, JPG, AI)  for the various cutting programs and am selling them at Design House Digital starting Thursday May 2oth (2010). These files should work for any die-cut machine including the Cricut (with SCAL), & Silhouette. I’m giving away this digital kit to one of my readers, all you need to do is comment — tell me what kind of cutting machine you have — and I’ll choose one random winner on Thursday Morning!

If you’ve heard about Project 365 or are thinking about doing it, now is a great time to start. I’m sure you have *some* photos from 2010 and many more days are ahead of you still! This year I was planning on doing a modified version of 365 where I would compile photos from each month and make a few pages, and then at the end of the year get an album printed. However when I really started looking at how much fun taking just one single picture every day could be, I decided to go for it! So I made a super clean, super simple album template for the month of January. I wanted it to be very photo-oriented because with 365 photos of different things, you don’t want too much interfering with that. Plus I like really graphic and editorial style layouts. Here is the album that I designed:

You can see that it’s really basic. It has 8 pages wth spaces for 31 photos, and then a 9th page which has one line for a caption for each photo. I am going to make a corresponding album for every month of 2010. Each will be a variation based on the season, but they will all have the same look and feel so that if you followed the project through for the whole year, you would end up with a sleek coordinating album.

You can also personalize and modify the template to your specifications by adding digital elements and patterns. I decided to make a quick video tutorial to show you just how easy it is to compile your photos from 2010. Hopefully it will inspire you to start taking pictures! If you are unfamiliar with templates, this tutorial should give you a basic understanding of how templates work in general.  I used Photoshop Elements 8.0 but the same principles apply to other versions as well as full-featured Photoshop.

If you’re interested in digital scrapbooking, but you think it’s a little intimidating, here’s a video I made for Design House Digital.

It’s just a really simple layout to get you started, and best of all, you can download the kit that I used for FREE so you can follow along. I used Photoshop Elements 8, and if you don’t have it, you can download a FREE 30-day free trial. It’s actually quite a simple and straightforward program to use, yet it has so many awesome features. You can also do this same basic thing with Photoshop.

Earlier this summer, we were contacted by Provo Craft and given the opportunity to test out their awesome silk screening machine, the YuDu. I must say, it’s simple enough to use and we had a great time using it. We tried to think of what our first project would be and decided to use the YuDu to create some nifty shirts for our then upcoming family reunion. I tried to design them, but ultimately, the project girl won out, and we went with her awesome “vintagey” design for the silk screening process.

The yudu comes in a box (LARGE) with everything you need to get started – some water based ink, emulsion, two screens, transparencies, a squeegee and instruction card. I highly suggest searching for a video online of how the process actually works before you dive right in. it certainly helped prepare me for the heartache that lie ahead.

First things first, find yourself an assistant. Mine happened to be the project girl, and I was in good hands. We signed up to do about 30 shirts. Looking back, I would have tried to find three or four assistants to help with the process. Jen took care of the design and we printed it on our Epson wide format printer at home. Things didn’t go too well with the first design (sordid details of  which I will forgo discussing); needless to say, we rethought things and settled with a much simpler design.

Printing the design was fairly easy. All we needed to do was make sure we printed on the right side of the provided transparency. There are two sides to it, so just be sure the side you print on (especially if you have an inkjet printer) is the sticky side.

Once your design is finalized and printed, you can step into the yudu process.

The yudu comes with a few sheets of emulsion. Emulsion reacts to light so it comes in a black bag. You want to make sure you don’t leave it out TOO long when working with it. It starts out green and changes color to blue when exposed to the light. So . . . What we did is cut the emulsion to the size of the design to save as much of it as we could (it’s super expensive for new sheets)

1. We wet the screen with a damp paper towel so that it’s not drenched, but moist.

2. Apply the emulsion with the squeegee. In this picture, you can see the first application of the emulsion that we tried. Be SURE to take the plastic film off the emulsion before putting it on the screen. Te next step will also be critical as well.

3. Dry the emulsion. The yudu comes with a nifty tray below the lighted surface that has built in fans., In our first attempt to get the emulsion to stick to the screen, the fans didn’t do enough for us, so this time, we used a BLOWDRYER. I highly recommend it if you have a yudu or are thinking about getting one. It’s definitely one thing they could improve in the next version of the yudu. A heated drying compartment would be ideal for making sure the emulsion sticks to the screen.

4. Place the design on the reverse side of the screen. Packaging tape works great for masking the rest of the screen from the ink application as well as securing your design in place. Where you place your cut and cropped design is where it’ll show up on the tee shirt once you center it on the included platen. The top of the yudu comes with 4 indexing pegs that let you keep the screen in the right place when exposing the screen to set the design. Once we placed our design as outlined by the instructions, we put a jar of rice on top for weight and set the timer and let the screen expose for around 15 minutes. It needs to be exposed long enough to have the screen go from bright green to a deep blue color. The parts that aren’t exposed will be green and will be removable with a light rinse of water.

5. Once the emulsion has set, rinse the screen with warm water (I think! ) and the green areas should rinse away. Be sure to rub it gently. We tried with a rough sponge at first and it ended up destroying the emulsion and also the design and had to start over.

6. Once the emulsion was dry, would start applying the design to our 30 shirts. We masked the exposed screen area with saran wrap and packaging tape so that the ink wouldn’t spill over to other areas of the shirt. When applying the ink, be sure to have enough. We had trouble the first few times with splotchy application simply because we didn’t have enough ink, or “flood” the screen first. You can read about that in the instructions that come with the yudu or check out videos of others using it online.

7. Squeegeeing was the hardest part. Man it was a workout. It was also challenging trying to figure out the right pressure, amount of ink, and how fast to apply the ink. I suggest getting a test shirt and trying it out a few times before you commit to that final stroke. From what I hear as well, the “super” squeegee with rubber blade works much better than the one included in the box. Jen handled the drying of the shirts with a blowdryer and placing them on the platen, and I took care of all the squeegeeing. Like I said before, It might be worth getting a few assistants to help out if you plan on doing more than 5 shirts. It’s a chore!

8. Once the shirt is done, you can hit it with a blowdryer, set it to the side, and repeat. Be sure to not let the ink dry on the screen. One thing we learned from the first run was that waiting too long between applications caused  the screen to clog up a bit, resulting in a splotchy and uneven application. One way to avoid this is to “flood” the screen with ink while you’re removing the t-shirt and replacing it with another.

All in all, it was a great experience. i’d never screen printed before and we made some awesome shirts together, mostly due to Jen’s awesome design skills and assistance.

Some things I liked were the indexing pins for the screen, the storage bay for your screens, and the teeshirt platen. I think I forgot to mention is has a slightly sticky surface so that your shirt or application surface stays fixes when the squeegee party starts.

I’d like to see a heated drying area in the next iteration, and perhaps a way to lock the screen in place when opening the top door of the yudu. We found that sometimes the screen would fall off when we opened the door to change the teeshirts. Also, beware of rogue ink. We had to quickly wash a teeshirt and let it dry because of some stray ink on our worksurface.

All in all the yudu is a great product and helped us make our family reunion tee shirts, which EVERYONE absolutely loved. I look forward to the next version and hope some key improvements will be made as well.

Mr Project out!

I have the cutest little pantry in my kitchen. It is about 4.5 feet tall and has a little glass door and a nice wide ledge. Ever since I moved here, I have been wanting some fabulous and large glass canisters to put on top. I was so happy a few weeks ago, when I found these beautiful 2.5 gallon canisters at Amazon:

My birthday just happened to be this week, and I asked for three of these puppies (I put a few more on my wedding registry because I love them so much. I want to do one for Rice and one for Bread Flour).

As soon as I got them, I filled them up with flour, sugar, and rolled oats. But what I really couldn’t wait to do, was to make labels for them! Here they are looking adorable on my pantry:

The glass on these jars is a little wavy and imperfect, and I love the dark lids – they definitely have an antique feel. So I made some cute distressed labels (available for download at the end of this post). I printed and cut them out and they were super cute…

… but I really wanted them to have an older feel than just flat printed paper. So I pulled out some supplies:

> a moist/wet paper towel

> distressing ink – Tim Holtz Antique Linen & vintage photo

> emry board – fine sand paper will do

> A flat clean work surface that can get wet/messy.

I printed my labels on regular bond paper. I recommend testing your distressing process on some test paper before going at the printed items. Also if you get water on an inkjet print, it will run, so if you want to get really down and dirty, print your labels with a laser printer. I didn’t worry about the ink running on the lighter parts of the design, but I did try and keep the paper away from the letters since they are so dark.

Step 1: Crinkle your labels. I recommend bigger, deeper folds and creases. As long as the paper is dry, you can be pretty rough with it. I bent and tore and creased quite a bit so that the ink would have a lot of fun detail to hold onto:

Step 2: Wet your labels. I used a wet paper towel to dab water around the edges. You definitely want the paper soaked, but not so much that it tears or bleeds into the center. You have to work fast at this point because it needs to be pretty wet for the next step. You may want to do step 2 & step 3 to one side at a time to keep your paper from drying too fast.

Step 3: Once you have a wet edge, go ahead and use the lighter ink on the wet parts. The ink should bleed as soon as it hits the water and create a “dying” effect as opposed to an “inking” effect. This will make it look aged and not just inked. After a little light inking, I applied just a tiny bit of dark inking on some of the edges:

At this point your paper will be pretty wet and your wrinkles will have disappeared, but they will come back. Just finish each label and set them aside to dry. I let mine dry about 30 minutes. Here is how they looked after I let them sit for a bit:

I love how aged they look and how stiff they feel after drying. I will definitely use this technique on more projects in the future.

If I had printed them on a laser printer, I would have made the entire label more “dyed” looking, but I’m pretty happy with how they turned out.

Attaching the labels was really easy, I used a large glue-dot in each corner. I don’t recommend this if you have a lot of people accessing your canisters, but I know its enough adhesive for my uses with the upside being that I can change them out pretty easy when I get bored of the look. You could use spray adhesive or run them through a larger xyron after they have dryed completely. If you printed on a laser printer, I imagine you could use Mod Podge, just test it on the glass first to see if it drys clear enough.

Here is a before & after shot. I really should have taken a before shot when the pantry was covered in half-empty flour and sugar bags, paper plates & food boxes.

I love how they look, how big the labels are, and just the overall vintage styling with the large black lids + the aged labels. So yummy.

You can really see the variety in the glass from this photo. I couldn’t be happier with how they turned out!

As promised, here is the label file. I did have to make it just a smidge smaller than the one I used in order to fit all the labels on one 8.5×11.

Download this label file and enjoy (for personal use only ). Please tell your friends to come visit the site and download their own labels. I would love a comment if you do download!

Each of these files are a 8.5″x11″ PDF. Use Acrobat Reader to open the file and print as many as you like! Happy project-ing!

If you are another blog or crafting site and would like to link this project to your site, please contact me. Thanks!

xoxo Jen Allyson